Author Topic: Rear brake kit  (Read 1230 times)

Vas

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Rear brake kit
« on: June 19, 2016, 01:35:55 PM »
Hi everybody,


I need to revive my rear brake- too spongy and a small oil leak from the valve. Any suggestions on rebuilt kit that I need to order, seals, etc plus a pair of brake pads.


Thank you,
Vas

Miti

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2016, 10:25:53 PM »
Hi Vas;

Assuming that this is your bike and that the brakes are as shown:



Then you have the 'normal' V1000 brakes, which use Brembo P08 Calipers.

Rebuild kits for the P08 calipers are widely available:



It's Part No. 98.5032.50  You need one kit for each caliper (three for the whole bike)

The kit doesn't include the bleed valve but these are available as stainless steel parts from aftermarket suppliers (try Ebay).

Hope that helps

Jeff
1975 Triumph Trident 750 (New Project)
1980 Yamaha XS1100 (Midnight Special)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Trike Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Reg'd 1985)
1982 Hesketh V1000 (Pre-Production Engine)

Vas

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2016, 05:29:53 PM »
Hi Jeff,

yes this is my bike and you are so helpful, thank you very much.

I am trying to check all details on the bike and make it as reliable as possible.

Another issue that just came up is the spark plugs. They seem to get wet and the bike does not start!!!

I changed the plugs for a new pair and everything was ok for a few miles and then the same. I clean them and then starts ok. After a couple of days of no use, the same again. I checked the fuel richness at the carbs it seems ok. I wonder that it may be the lead additive I use (wurth) since the problem started after my first refuelling.

ANY IDEAS ?

Also, please tell me the story behind the photo of my bike...

Cheers,
Vas

Miti

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2016, 08:30:26 PM »
Hi Vas;

The photo is one that was sent to me by the 2nd owner of the bike when he decided to sell it in Feb 2012.  The advert was placed in Sock 98 with the following wording:

"This motorcycle was built in 1983 with parts from the Daventry factory. It has never been registered and has 24 miles on the odometer. This unique piece of British Motor Cycling history is open to serious sensible offers only.
Stuart Lawrence"


The bike reappeared as part of the 'stock' at Hesketh Motorcycles (Kingswood) in April 2013 - Sock 103 (June 2013) has it pictured on the front page.

With regard to the 'flooding'  There are a couple of options...

1.  It's fuel.  Too much of it.  The Hesketh ignition system uses two 6V ignition coils wired in series.  The spark this produces isn't the 'hottest' in the world and can't cope with flooding, this can cause problems like yours...  I suggest that you check all HT components and connections.  It may also be beneficial to ensure that there is only one 'resistor' in each HT line...  If the bike is using NGK 'resistor' plug caps, I would suggest non-resistor plugs.  Once you have the spark as good as it can be, I would suggest checking the carbs.  I am convinced that the 'solid' mounts that hold the carbs to the engine cause the carb floats to 'bounce' and become maladjusted.  Re-setting the float height may be a quick fix.

2.  It's oil...  In which case you'll need to investigate where it's coming from...  The pistons (past the rings) or the valves (down the guides).

Does it 'smoke' from the exhausts when you start it up..?

Jeff
« Last Edit: June 30, 2016, 07:51:33 PM by Miti »
1975 Triumph Trident 750 (New Project)
1980 Yamaha XS1100 (Midnight Special)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Trike Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Reg'd 1985)
1982 Hesketh V1000 (Pre-Production Engine)

Vas

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2016, 01:31:41 PM »
Hi Jeff and thank you for the valuable info, once again...

I will check scenario 1 below ( I have ordered new spark plugs again today to check if this makes a difference - I use the manual recommended NGK DR8ES  ). Is there a way to increase the 'spark' produced ??? - Different coils??? Indeed I checked the spark produced with the spark plug outside the cylinder and it does seem very weak, even with naked eye.

Will check the carbs as well, the richness screw is 1.5 turns out on both carbs, will also check the float height as you suggest.

Scenario 2 (oil)  is scary, I see no smoke from the pipes but the plugs are indeed black after a while - will check.

Thanks and will update,
Vas

Rob B

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2016, 02:33:51 PM »
Hello Vas,

One more thing to check. Make sure that all three choke cables have some slack in them and are running freely because otherwise one or other of the spring-loaded enrichment pistons might not be closing properly, or both!

Cheers,

Robert
RB

1980 Jota - 1982 V1000 - 1985 SFC 1000
1993 907IE - 1995 Daytona Super III
1960 Perplexed Wife

Vas

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2016, 03:04:53 PM »
Thank you Robert, will do so.

Miti

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2016, 08:03:03 PM »
I will check scenario 1 below ( I have ordered new spark plugs again today to check if this makes a difference - I use the manual recommended NGK DR8ES  ). Is there a way to increase the 'spark' produced ??? - Different coils??? Indeed I checked the spark produced with the spark plug outside the cylinder and it does seem very weak, even with naked eye.

Check where the battery -ve cable is earthed to.  It should really be secured under an engine stud/nut, but when I got my V1000 the -ve lead was connected under one of the rear mudguard bolts... :o

Also check the earth wiring for the ignition unit... Make certain it's got a clean connection to the frame...

It is possible to change the coils for 4 Volt items, but I couldn't say how that would affect the Lucas Rita ignition unit, or the coils...?

If you have NGK plug caps, they will have a 5K Ohm resistor inside.  The DR8ES plugs also have one, so the resistance is doubled... I would recommend D8ES plugs and see if the spark improves... I'm using modern silicone plug leads with a carbon/resistive conductors and the DR8ES plugs do tend to 'foul' very easily (my bike burns oil on the rear cyl due to worn valve-guides - long story) The next plugs I try will be non-resistive - perhaps D8EV platinum ones, if I can find them...

Hope that helps

jeff
1975 Triumph Trident 750 (New Project)
1980 Yamaha XS1100 (Midnight Special)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Trike Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Reg'd 1985)
1982 Hesketh V1000 (Pre-Production Engine)

Vas

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2016, 08:47:57 PM »
 some more great advise, will check as you suggest, thank you Jeff.

Pete D

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2016, 09:49:11 PM »
Jeff

You recommend the DR8ES and Robert favours DR8EA.  Having done a little research there seem to be little difference (other than 'special' electrode); do you know better?

BTW, my Old Girl is running (nearly) beautifully....considerable credit to you!

Cheers

Pete

Rob B

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #10 on: July 20, 2016, 10:21:04 PM »
Hello Pete,

My V1000 will run happily on either but the Vampire I had previously would foul the DR8ES whereas the DR8EA's worked OK? Mind you, it also hesitated just off idle and I played around with idle mixture, jets, throttle valve cutaway, accelerator pump ramp and rate, in fact everything; and never quite cured it. Sold it instead :-)

RB
RB

1980 Jota - 1982 V1000 - 1985 SFC 1000
1993 907IE - 1995 Daytona Super III
1960 Perplexed Wife

Pete D

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #11 on: July 21, 2016, 07:43:36 PM »
Hi Rob

Thanks.  Mine used to and still hesitates just off idle too....  I am going through the hoops you did, in the vain hope of curing it.  However, I am hopeful that the 8EAs will last longer than the Irridium plugs...

She's an 'odd' old lady!!

Pete

Miti

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #12 on: July 31, 2016, 01:58:05 AM »
Jeff

You recommend the DR8ES and Robert favours DR8EA.  Having done a little research there seem to be little difference (other than 'special' electrode); do you know better?

I'm going with non-resistor plugs Pete...  I was looking for D8ES, but very rare.  Easier to get the D8EA spec...  I'm using non-resistor plugs as I have resistive leads.  The OE copper leads need the resistor plugs, but using resistive leads and resistor plugs is overkill and I suspect it reduces the spark voltage level and contributes to fouling issues...

We'll see, eh..?

Jeff
1975 Triumph Trident 750 (New Project)
1980 Yamaha XS1100 (Midnight Special)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Trike Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Reg'd 1985)
1982 Hesketh V1000 (Pre-Production Engine)

Pete D

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Re: Rear brake kit
« Reply #13 on: August 03, 2016, 10:55:03 AM »
Jeff

I'd be very interested to hear how you get on. Whilst mine is now sparking a bit more reliably, I am running the same set up as you.

Interesting that Robert has suffered the same fluffiness on another bike just off idle that I do..... These things are never easy to nail.

Cheers

Pete

Miti

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Non-Resistor Spark Plugs...
« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2016, 10:30:34 PM »
D8EA plugs fitted today... I've been having repeated problems with rear cyl fouling the plug again and again...

New plugs gapped to 0.7mm (0.028") which is max gap in Owner's manual.

Bike started up 'on the button', warmed up beautifully and was idling as sweet as ever within a few minutes.  It's hardly conclusive proof as the bike often just starts and runs (almost like it's supposed too).  ;)

But the tickover so rapidly is a new development - normally takes about 2 - 3 miles before she'll idle reliably...

And (very subjective) the exhaust pulses are far stronger than I remember and much more regular...

I may be onto something here...  :D

I hope to get a few miles under her wheels tomorrow... I'll report back after that...

Jeff
1975 Triumph Trident 750 (New Project)
1980 Yamaha XS1100 (Midnight Special)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Trike Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Reg'd 1985)
1982 Hesketh V1000 (Pre-Production Engine)