Author Topic: Center stand bolt  (Read 3392 times)

Anthony

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  • ALABAMA HESKETH
Center stand bolt
« on: November 23, 2019, 11:14:58 PM »
Hi Guys!
Following a rather "spirited" ride on the interstate the other day, as I came up the off ramp my oil lamp came on. Clutch in, engine off, coast to a stop. The bike was covered in oil and with no obvious signs of what went wrong I trailered her home. Up on the ramp I thought the gearbox sprocket oil seal was to blame as I have the drain bolts lock wired since my Bonneville trip but upon inspection the upper right hand bolt from the center stand mounting bracket was missing. Im assuming this orifice extends into the gearbox allowing oil to be spewed out. Can anyone inform me of the correct size and pitch of the bolt please? I do not think any damage was done to the engine as I caught it quickly.
Also while the bike is on the lift I want to replace a few things like the throttle/choke cables, new mirrors etc and do a shim job. Can someone please tell me where to get these items? I've tried Claire's spares in the past but the last two times I've gotten no response?
im sure the shims are also fitted to other manufactures bikes?
1982 HESKETH V1000
1976 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE T140V,
1978 SUZUKI GS1000,1982 SUZUKI GS1000G
2010 H.D. XR1200X,1999 BUELL 1200 THUNDERBOLT S3
1973 SUZUKI TS 250, 1962 R.E. 250 CRUSADER SPORTS

Chris N

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Re: Center stand bolt
« Reply #1 on: November 25, 2019, 09:09:17 AM »
Hi Anthony was it this bolt?

Dave Snr

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Re: Center stand bolt
« Reply #2 on: November 25, 2019, 09:13:56 AM »
Hi Tony,
Unfortunately, stand bolts do come loose on Heskeths from all that effort of rocking it on and off the centre stand.
For other HOC members reading this, make sure the bolts are tight and preferably wire them.
The bolts are in blind holes in the crankcase, so presumably the loose bolt has made a hole letting the oil out.
The post below yours on the forum from Chris Nix titled Engine Removal describes making the same repair on Hesketh crankcases. Unfortunately the excellent pictures that Chris posted are not visible and I've done a quick check and other forum pics are missing, so I'll ask our webmaster if he can restore the links.
In the meantime, I'll send an email to Chris, with you on copy and ask him to email photos and info to you.

Good luck
Dave H

Chris N

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Re: Center stand bolt
« Reply #3 on: November 25, 2019, 12:48:48 PM »
Hi
i replaced mine with a cut down M10/1.5mm stainless allen headed bolt i had knocking about.


my blind hole is 25mm deep and i was lucky it had not been helicioled before.



Anthony

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Re: Center stand bolt
« Reply #4 on: November 25, 2019, 03:37:24 PM »
Hi Chris,

Yes that's the bolt. It worries me now that it should be a blind hole. I see you had welding done there, did the casing crack?
I need to lift the back end of mine and take a closer look.
Dave, thanks for your help. Who is selling the spare parts now? I'm going to need a clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit as well as the other items I mentioned.
1982 HESKETH V1000
1976 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE T140V,
1978 SUZUKI GS1000,1982 SUZUKI GS1000G
2010 H.D. XR1200X,1999 BUELL 1200 THUNDERBOLT S3
1973 SUZUKI TS 250, 1962 R.E. 250 CRUSADER SPORTS

Anthony

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  • ALABAMA HESKETH
Re: Center stand bolt
« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2019, 03:46:25 PM »
Chris,
Just read your post on the engine removal.
I wonder how many engines suffer like this?
I'm hoping mines not that bad, we will see!
I'll post what I find here. Thanks for the pics.
1982 HESKETH V1000
1976 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE T140V,
1978 SUZUKI GS1000,1982 SUZUKI GS1000G
2010 H.D. XR1200X,1999 BUELL 1200 THUNDERBOLT S3
1973 SUZUKI TS 250, 1962 R.E. 250 CRUSADER SPORTS

Dave Snr

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Re: Center stand bolt
« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2019, 06:29:19 PM »
Clutch slave cylinder - haven't changed the seals myself, only done the master cylinders. Our Chairman, Richard had his fail on the way to our Silverstone event. The clutch pushrod seized and with the efffort to try and get it to operate he blew the seals. I know he's fixed it, so I'll email him and get him to post on the forum, where he got the seals from.

Valve shims are 15.5 to 15.75mm (5/8") diameter and in the UK are common to a lot of cars, Hillman Imp, Triumph TR7, Austin Rover S series, Lotus. Have a google for valve shims 15.5mm diameter and see what you can find local to you.

Dave H

velocollins

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Re: Center stand bolt and Slave Cylinder
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2019, 10:56:12 PM »
Hi Antony,
As Dave indicated, I have completed a full Slave Cylinder rebuild with new Cylinder, Piston, Main Seals and Push Rod to crankcase oil seals.  New 6mm anti friction ball bearing were also fitted as the piston ball was fused to the piston.

Whilst the Timing Cover was off I also replaced the interface oil seals as they had gone hard after 38 years.

Unfortunately, the previous owner had attempted to fit new seals, but the cylinder bore was badly corroded with the combination of DOT 4 and moisture erosion.  Then when the push rod seized the clutch fluid was forced out of the pushrod oil seal and timing cover aperture.

I obtained Oil Seals and O-rings from Simply Bearings in the UK with the assistance of original part numbers and full descriptions from David Sharp.

I would recommend removing the timing cover and all slave cylinder internals and inspecting thoroughly.

Claire’s Hesketh Spares do have Slave Cylinder barrels and pistons and some main piston seals and O-rings.  I opted for some old new stock Lockheed piston seals off the Internet and new oil seals as some from Claire’s spares were not as flexible as I would have liked after being in storage for 38 years.

I have attached the part number details and the Simply Bearings part numbers for reference.

The Lockheed Spares Kit I sourced off the Internet for the main piston seal was SSB 518 and the piston seal can be found in other kits.

Regards
Richard
« Last Edit: November 27, 2019, 11:15:32 PM by velocollins »

Anthony

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Re: Center stand bolt
« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2019, 04:12:43 PM »
Hi Guys,

Thanks to all for the info, Ill be getting into the bike soon.
So I jacked up the engine and removed the center stand. There is no damage at all to the cases and the missing bolt hole is perfect so I missed the bullet there!
Pictures are linked to dropbox, links below.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g2xp267bcthkb7p/AADIVO7nnxyurFQ5LA1K0xgHa?dl=0

When reassembled these bolts will be lockwired as Dave suggests. I have always set the rear wheel spindle "high" on the swing arm adjusters, maybe this helps a little?
Next question is where was all that oil coming from?
I reattached the pipes and temp petrol tank and ran it up on the bench, I have a weep of oil from the base of the rear cylinder which is getting worse but not that bad, the culprit was the grommet around the alternator wires leaving the l/h casing and it was pumping the oil out, I never saw this when the oil light came on as it was evening and quite dark.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g70o9qghteg4dca/IMG_4095.JPG?dl=0

So problem found and as she is up on the bench Im going to do the repairs as mentioned and take the engine down to the crankcases to check top end and fix leaks there.
My nickel plated swingarm is peeling and looks a sorry state so I'll try getting it replated. Does anyone know the best approach to the nickel plate removal? I understand it can be done by abrasive blasting, reverse electroplating or acid removal. Dunno which is best?
1982 HESKETH V1000
1976 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE T140V,
1978 SUZUKI GS1000,1982 SUZUKI GS1000G
2010 H.D. XR1200X,1999 BUELL 1200 THUNDERBOLT S3
1973 SUZUKI TS 250, 1962 R.E. 250 CRUSADER SPORTS

Dave Snr

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Re: Center stand bolt
« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2019, 03:45:08 PM »
Hi Tony,

Good news that you don't have damaged crankcases.

While you're fixing the oil leak, it would be worth checking the engine breather which runs from the front cylinder Sock up to the air box. If the oil separator unit which is in the breather gets blocked then it will cause the engine to pressurise, hence oil leaks.

Nickel plating - haven't had any experince myself, but be careful with reverse electro plating as it can affect the bronze welding, so make sure they are aware of it.

Best regards

Dave H